quasi-ligatures (which is the way dashes usually are handled in TeX),
so I pulled my copy of the Metafontbook off the shelf. There
are drawings in the book, and I've got to say, Meta the Metafont
Lioness is hot!
(That's probably actually a bad solution, but no harm in considering it.)
Update: It looks as if cstex (for Czech and Slovak) uses encTeX
extensions, so that's what I will do.
(P.S. Who let in the box elder bug that buzzed me?)